Things to Do in Colombia

About Colombia

The morning starts with panela-scented fog rolling off the Sierra Nevada and the thud-thud of coffee beans hitting drying beds in Salento’s fincas. By noon you’re in Cartagena’s old town, where the walls sweat salt and the sound system from Bazurto Market leaks reggaeton into 17th-century alleyways. Bogotá’s La Candelaria smells like diesel and aguardiente; Medellín’s Comuna 13 smells like mango shaved ice and fresh paint. The country runs on 3,000 peso (0.75) arepas sold from carts on Calle 9 in Laureles, and on flights that hop between Caribbean beaches and snow-capped Andean peaks in under two hours. Safety has improved dramatically—tourist police now patrol Getsemaní at night—but you’ll still see armed guards outside every Juan Valdez. The exchange rate is generous at the moment: 4,200 COP to the dollar, which means you can ride the Metrocable up to Parque Arví for 6,000 pesos (1.42) or sleep in a restored colonial mansion in Barrio San Diego for less than a Holiday Inn in Ohio. Colombia’s secret is that it hasn’t figured out how to sell itself gently; it just is—loud, warm, relentently alive, and currently cheap enough that you can afford to stay long enough to learn why.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Domestic flights are absurdly cheap: Bogotá to Medellín runs 120,000 COP (28) on Viva Air if you book two weeks ahead. Buses are half that but take 9 hours through the Andes—dramatic, but rough. In cities, Bogotá’s TransMilenio is 2,700 COP (0.65) per ride; Medellín’s Metro is 2,950 COP (0.70) and connects directly to the cable cars. Skip taxis from Cartagena airport—they’ll quote 60,000 COP (14) to Getsemaní. Walk to the main road and grab a colectivo for 4,000 COP (1).

Money: ATMs give pesos at 4,200 to the dollar, but Davivienda charges 20,000 COP (4.75) per withdrawal—Bancolombia is cheaper at 13,000 COP (3.10). Most upscale spots take cards, but street vendors and small fincas are cash-only. Bring crisp $50 bills—exchange houses give better rates than banks for dollars. Pro tip: pay for domestic flights in pesos online; the USD conversion markup is brutal.

Cultural Respect: Don’t mention Pablo Escobar—it’s exhausting for locals and will kill conversations instantly. In Medellín’s Comuna 13, ask before photographing graffiti; many murals memorialize actual neighbors. Colombians greet with a single cheek kiss, even between men meeting women. When offered coffee in the countryside, refusing is borderline rude—it’s the host’s pride. Learn to dance basic salsa before you land; even grandmothers will expect you to try at family gatherings.

Food Safety: Street food is safer than you think—look for stands with lines and high turnover. The real risk is ice: Montezuma’s revenge is rarer in Colombia, but chipped ice in fruit juices can ruin a week. Stick to bottled water outside major cities. In Bogotá’s Paloquemao Market, the fruit ladies will slice you a mango for 2,000 COP (0.48) and expect you to eat it with your hands. If you’re nervous, start with empanadas from Bogotá’s La Puerta Falsa—they’ve been frying them since 1816 and haven’t killed anyone yet.

When to Visit

Colombia’s weather is a geography lesson: December to March is dry in the Andes (Bogotá 18-20°C / 64-68°F) and perfect in Cartagena (28°C / 82°F, low humidity), but it’s peak pricing—hotels jump 50-70% and flights from Miami can hit $600. April-May brings afternoon storms to Medellín (price drops 40%) but keeps the Caribbean coast sunny. June-August is whale watching on the Pacific coast at Bahía Solano, but Bogotá turns gray and 15°C (59°F) with daily drizzle. September-October sees the lowest crowds—Cartagena hotels drop to 120,000 COP (28) for boutique properties—and the coffee region glows green after rains. Festival calendar: Medellín’s Feria de las Flores in August (hotel prices triple), Cartagena’s Hay Festival in January (book 6 months out), and Barranquilla’s Carnival in February (the second biggest in Latin America, flights sell out). For budget travelers: come in October-November, when hostels in Salento run 25,000 COP (6) and domestic flights are 30% off. Luxury seekers should aim for December or Holy Week—expect to pay 300,000 COP (71) for top-tier Cartagena casas, but you’ll get perfect weather and every restaurant open. Solo travelers: avoid September in Bogotá when protests can shut the airport. Families: July is ideal—school’s out but rain hasn’t started on the coast, and you’ll have the beach to yourselves before Europeans arrive in August.